{"id":5429,"date":"2023-03-21T16:01:00","date_gmt":"2023-03-21T08:01:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ray-tron.com\/?p=5429"},"modified":"2023-09-01T13:42:39","modified_gmt":"2023-09-01T05:42:39","slug":"ele5559","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ray-tron.com\/en\/ele5559\/","title":{"rendered":"How to strip shielded wire"},"content":{"rendered":"

Step 1: Remove the shielding<\/p>

The trickiest part is scoring the shield of the shielded wire deep enough to noticeably weaken it, but not so deep that you cut through the wire inside. The best combination, I've found, is a sharp knife, very little pressure, and very slow cuts perpendicular to the wire. I usually support the wire with the pad of my left index finger as I cut, which gives more textile feedback as I break through the shield and reach the wire inside. If you feel noticeable friction between metal and metal, stop immediately. The higher the ratio of your slicing motion to your downward cut, the less damage you'll do. Don't just press down on the blade to cut!<\/p>

Some shields will yield in the next step without having to cut all the way through the core, which is better for the conductive wire, but some stubborn shields won't yield unless you cut all the way through in at least one place. Whenever possible, I stop before completely breaking through the shield to avoid puncturing the wire inside.<\/p>

After nicking the shield, if you bend the wire away from the notch you'll have a better idea of how much you've nicked, giving you the opportunity to grab a larger gap in the next step.<\/p>

Normally, two notches in the shield on opposite sides of the conductor are sufficient.<\/p>

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